Forest Floor Blog Tour for Bonnie Christine

Today is my stop on the Forest Floor Blog Post featuring Bonnie Christine's current line, Forest Floor for Art Gallery Fabrics! This collection comes right from Bonnie's heart, because she and her sweet family live in a beautiful forest, quiet and serene. She lives in a part of the country that is noted for trails and waterfalls, so it's her little piece of heaven on earth. I traveled with Bonnie and Callie Lynch (her photographer) deep into the forest to photograph the Lookbook, so for a personal glimpse of her area, just click here!

I love that, as Bonnie's mom, I help her set up her booth at International Quilt Markets. At right is a look at part of her booth from Forest Floor. Like that Cross quilt? I shared about it in a previous blog post! You'll find the pattern here.

While at Quilt Market I found another beautiful addition for my quilt shop: Leather! That's right! The Old City Quilt Shop had a booth showcasing their leathers, with bags, wallets and even quilts made from them! (More on that soon!)

So... for today's project I chose to combine a beautiful saddle brown leather with Bonnie's Wild Posy Flora in a pattern from Swoon Patterns, Brooklyn Handbag and Traveler.

Have you ever sewn with a Swoon Pattern? The directions and pattern pieces are clear and easy to understand, and following their step-by-step instructions ensures a well-made, professional outcome. Here are all my leather pieces, ready to go! Look, just look, at that metallic gold zipper!

Working with this leather lead to a few customized changes in some of the pieces, particularly the strap connectors.  Swoon works with a lot of faux leather (vinyl) which permits the raw edges to be shown as trim, but my leather was much thinner and I wanted to finish off those edges. After a couple of trials for the strap connectors, I decided to cut them with a 3/8" seam allowance and turn that seam allowance to the wrong side. To do so, I stitched with a straight stitch along the seam allowance and then turned the allowance to the back side, bringing the stitches slightly to the back side as well so they would not show from the front side. The seam allowances were glued to the back side of each piece with an adhesive roller. I also found that a fabric glue stick worked great, and double sided tape is also a good choice for this process.

I did lengthen the handles a few inches just to fit my preferences. Other than these things, I followed the pattern just as it was written.

Clipping the leather in the curves was mandatory! Click on the photos for detail.

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My leather is very thin, like gloves. It stitches beautifully, but there are a few rules you must follow for success:

1. Use a leather needle! This needle has a blade like tip that cuts through the leather. A regular needle tears through and will tear between the stitches.
2. Stabilize your leather! My favorite stabilizer is a cotton woven stabilizer called Shape Flex. I cut the stabilizer to exact size, with no seam allowances and fused to the wrong side of the leather. (Use a pressing sheet so that your iron does not touch the leather.) This allowed me to fold the seam allowance just over the cut edge of the stabilizer and glue it securely in place. The stabilizer acted as a guide for me while gluing. I stabilized every piece.
3. After gluing, use a small brayer to flatten the seam allowance and press it nice and flat to the glue.
4. Don't use pins! You'll make a hole in the leather, and once it's there, well, it's there. I glued everything. I tried to use the binding clips, but abandoned them when I found that they left an indention in the leather.
5. Use a Teflon foot on your sewing machine! I've heard that you can alternately put tape on the bottom of your foot, and various other solutions, but...just get a Teflon foot because it was completely smooth and problem-free!
6. Lengthen your stitch length. Stitches too close together could cause the leather to tear. Besides, it's just not necessary. Look at your shoes or a bag that is made from leather and examine the stitch length.

Lastly, make a little leather tassel for your zipper tab! I used two 1"x3" strips of leather, slicing 'fringe' in 1/4" increments, stopping 1" from the top. I sandwiched them inside a folded 1" x 6" strip that I fringed on both ends. Then I added a D ring and a stud to hold them together. 

Be sure to check out yesterday's blog post by Alex of Alextilalila Designs in Barcelona! Isn't it fun to have sewing friends all over the world? She made the cutest tote, you won't want to miss it! Tomorrow's stop is Terri Steele. Click here to see a lineup of all the links to the blogs participating. It's a great group with so much inspiration to share. Purchase Forest Floor fabrics at A Stitch in Time with free shipping!

Thanks for visiting! Happy Sewing and God bless! Maxie

Machine Embroidery, Sweets for the Sweet!

I've been a fan of Evy Hawkins' work for a while. You may be familiar with her beautiful Sashiko techniques, or her monograms and embroidery designs, or her machine cutwork (she teaches a Machine Embroidered Cutwork Class on Craftsy). Her website is a wonderland of delicately beautiful needlework, ranging from quilting to hand embroidery. It's packed with projects, tutorials and inspiration, so brew a cup of tea and have a visit with Evy!

When I first saw her Baby Deer embroidery designs I knew I had to make something for my new granddaughter, Ollie Doe! I could hardly wait for the 5 second download to complete. By the way, she offers this for both hand and machine embroiderers.

My Baby Lock Destiny stitched it out perfectly! Tip: My machine has an optional basting feature, which adds a basting stitch around the design, spaced perfectly around four sides. Before removing the stitches, I used them to square up the embroidery piece perfectly! I simply measured 1" off the stitching line and trimmed. See photo below. Ready for the borders!

I added 3" borders of pink check printed linen and piping and it was ready for little Ollie's visit in no time! Thanks, Evy, for your beautiful work!

And thank you for visiting! Happy Sewing and God bless. Maxie

Sewing for A Baby Girl

You probably know already that I'm the happy Mimi of a little 2 year old boy named Bear, and you also probably know that he has a little sister named Ollie Doe. Bear affectionately calls her "Ah-ee Doe". I love how they already love each other.

When my daughters were small I enjoyed smocking and heirloom sewing, so I thought I'd try my hand at something a little modern with a touch of the old fashioned.

This little top is made from Bonnie Christine's latest line, Forest Floor, for Art Gallery Fabrics. We've been working on projects for the Lookbook that will accompany the line's release, and I thought I'd share a little peek with you today.

The first thing to do was to find a pattern that would give me a place to insert the smocking. Kwik Sew 3689 fit the bill with a center gathered front section, just below the yoke. I cut that part of the pattern, adding a couple more inches at the fold to allow for a little fuller panel.

The piping, made from bias strips, is applied between the seams. I have two presser feet that help to make the piping smooth and perfect. In the above photo, left, I am using the Mini Piping Foot, which has a small tunnel under the foot that rides over the cord inside the piping. Moving the needle into a position that will sew just one thread closer to the cord will make that piping thread (shown with white thread) invisible.

The photo on the right shows my preferred way to attach the two panels. The normal technique is to sandwich the piping between the two panels placed right sides together and sew, hoping to sew at just the precise place that won't be too close or too far away from the piping. Instead, I sew the piping to one panel (which is what is happening in the left photo) and press the seam allowance to the wrong side, flipping the piping over on the panel's edge. Then I just lay the piped panel over the seam allowance of the piece it will be sewn to, pin in place and stitch in the ditch, catching the seam allowance of the unpiped panel in the process. I use the Edge Joining Foot for this technique, and it really is very helpful when sewing piped fabric to gathers or smocking because I am working from the top side and all fabrics are visible.

I think Ollie Doe likes it! For more pictures, just watch for Art Gallery Fabrics' Look Book link here soon!

Thanks for visiting! Happy Sewing and God bless! Maxie

Padded Ribbon Key Fob

Sometimes I just need a nice little project that I can finish in.....say, 10 minutes. Sometimes I need a little gift in a hurry. Sometimes I need to take a break from that quilt I've been working on for six months and actually finish something. I think I have just the ticket.

Working with beautiful textures and textiles always lifts my spirit, and this project is a delight because it includes a little bit of luxurious ribbon from Renaissance Ribbons! And because the end result is something that everyone needs, (whether you're gifting yourself or someone else), it will long be appreciated for both its usefulness and beauty.

The two ribbons used above are from Bonnie Christine's designs for Renaissance Ribbon.  Because they coordinate with her Hello, Bear fabrics, you may recognize the sweet little fox and owl. I have several of these key fobs and they are so great because the ribbon is easy to find in my purse and I can wear it like a bracelet when I need to keep up with my keys.

• Supplies:
• 9" braid trim a bit wider than your ribbon. I used a 1" wide braid.
• 9" ribbon
• matching thread
• BInding clips or pins
• Key Fob Hardware Set

Assembly:

•  Lay ribbon on top of the braid, centered. Hold in place with binding clips or pins.
• The Edge Joining Foot from Baby Lock makes it so easy to sew straight along the edge of projects. See the fabric guide in the first photo, below? In the second photo you can see how the guide is placed next to the stitching edge, keeping your stitches on the straight and narrow!

I've made too many of these to count, but this green one gave me a new idea. I decided to try to slip a 1/2" strip of batting inside, between the ribbon and the braid. To do so, I sewed one long edge of the ribbon to the braid and lifted the unsewn edge and placed the batting inside (center photo, below). I used a glue stick to hold the batting in place. Next, I stitched the remaining long edge to the braid. The grey ribbon, (shown left in the far right photo, below) is unpadded, the green is padded. The padding adds an extra layer of special-ness to this special ribbon!

After stitching both sides of the ribbon, stitch across the short ends to secure. You'll need a key fob hardware set to complete your project. The optional pliers simplify things and press the clamp smoothly together (first photo, below) Simply fold the ribbon/braid in half and place the short ends inside the hardware clamp (middle photo, below). Give the clamp a good press (third photo, below). Add your split ring and you're done! At least, with your first one! Hardware,  Hello, Bear Ribbons and braid aren't listed on my website, but are available at my quilt shop, if you'd like to call! 828 524-3300. See other available ribbons by Bonnie Christine here.

Thanks for visiting. Happy Sewing and God bless!  Maxie

How to Make a Christmas Stocking...Extra Special!

As Thanksgiving approaches, the onset of Christmas Spirit commences. Let the Christmas sewing begin!

I made these two stockings for my grandchildren, Ollie Doe and Bear. You may recognize that the fabric for the cuff is from Bonnie Christine's fabric line for Art Gallery Fabrics, Hello, Bear. There happens to be a doe in the fabric, so by adding Ollie's name to the embroidery design I was able to personalize her stocking, too! I posted last week about Bonnie's coordinating machine embroidery designs for the new app, Acudesign, from which I chose the Bear and the Doe to make their stockings. Whether you choose to embroider a design on your stocking, or applique´, use patchwork or plain fabric, you can follow these simple directions to make a stocking extra special for your special someone!

First of all, draw a stocking shape on your pattern paper. Trace another stocking or create an original shape; stockings come in all shapes and sizes! I used a basic shape from a great little pattern by Sharon Hollifield, who teaches occasionally at my shop (if you'd like to order her pattern, just send me an email).

• Trace the design onto your stocking front fabric. If you are planning to embellish in any way, don't cut it out yet. Embellish as desired first, within your drawn stocking line.
• After embellishing, cut out your stocking front and another plain stocking for the back. Make sure they match when placed right sides together.
• Cut two lining pieces the same size.
• For the cuff, cut two pieces the width of your stocking top by 8". My stocking piece measured 9" across the top edge, so I cut two cuff rectangles, each 9" wide and 8" deep. If your fabric is directional, as mine, keep in mind that the top half of the cuff rectangle will be folded down to the front outside (the center line of the cuff will become the lower edge of the cuff). I was able to plan a bit of the deer and the bear to be placed in just the right spot. Get creative with your cuff...use faux fur, leather, corduroy, satin, an old sweater, etc.
• With right sides together, stitch the front cuff to the front stocking. The photo below shows the cuff sections stitched to the stocking front and back, and the lining pieces are laid in place. This photo also shows why a separate cuff is needed for directional prints! Had they been cut from one piece of fabric, either the cuff or the lining would have been upside down.

• Next, place the lining pieces and the cuff right sides together and stitch, as shown below:

Hint: Press the cuff seams toward the cuff on the front piece and away from the cuff on the back piece. This will allow your seams to nestle in opposite directions and reduce bulk.

• Place the two pieces right sides together (nestle and pin those cuff seams) and stitch around the outer edges, leaving a 3" opening (for turning right side out) at the bottom of the lining 'foot'. To reduce bulk and allow smoother seams in the curves, clip almost to the stitching line in the inner and outer curves. Trimming the seam with pinking shears, as I did, will accomplish the same thing.

• Turn right side out and press well. I cannot stress how easily the Point 2 Point Pressing tool makes the job a cinch. After turning, simply run the curved edge along the seam inside the stocking (through the opening at the lining bottom).

After pressing well, sew the opening closed by machine. It will never show, no need to waste precious time hand sewing! Stuff the lining down inside the stocking. The cuff will extend above the stocking, simply fold it down over the outside of the top and press well. Attach a ribbon at the back seam for hanging. Give it to someone extra special!

Thanks for stopping by. Happy sewing and God bless! Maxie